Registan | Tilla Kori
Ten years later, in 1646 the construction of Tilla-Kori Madrasa started on the place of a caravanserai. The works continued 14 years and were completed in 1660. This building encloses the Registan square from the north, thus forming a finished architectural ensemble, with a facade looking southwards. The name Tilla-Kori Madrasa means “finished with gold.” Besides its main function of teaching students, the Tilla-Kori Madrasa was used as a synodic mosque.The main facade’s composition is symmetric with that of the central portal, front wings with two rows of cells, arch niches turned towards the square – loggias and corner towers – guldasta.
The vast four-liwan yard is surrounded by cells (two stores around the main facade and one around the others). The western part of the building is occupied by a domed building of the mosque with two adjacent galleries on pillars.In the center there is a square, cross-shaped room, and borders made of carved stalactites on the bottom. Other surfaces of the walls and the dome are fully covered with the kundal painting with rich gilding. Mihrab – the pointer to Mecca – is also covered with gold as well as eleven stairs of the minbar (a podium for imam). Richness of gold in the finishing determined the temple’s name – Tilla-Kori. The mosque was covered by a double dome, but construction of the outer one was not completed. The external and yard facades are covered with brick and typesetting mosaic and maiolica with geometric, plant and epigraphic ornament.
Thus in XVII century Registan acquired its new magnificent look – as we see it these days.The late XVII and early XVIII centuries in the history of Maverannahr are characterized by conflicts and weakness of the Bukhara’s central powers, as well as attacks and devastation of the country by nomadic tribes. Samarkand suffered the most in the 20-ies of XVIII century, when periods of total desolation changed with short breaks of recovery. According to witnesses, there were times, when the city “…had neither men nor women; nobody except the monarch Shoh Juguz. The blessed mosques, holy madrasas, and charity institutions were breaking down…” The madrasas were empty and wild animals lived in the city.
Some changes for the better started only in the late XVII century. Residents of the nearby towns and villages moved to Samarkand. The city was gradually brought back to living; once again Registain was boiling with life, tradesmen rebuilt numerous small shops and constructions.
In 1875 the square was brought to order – three-meter earth layer, which gathered during the centuries and concealed the height of the buildings, was removed. The ground was leveled and tiled. As before, Registan became the city center. In 1918, after the soviet government gained power in Samarkand, the madrasas stopped functioning as religious schools. In a year the shops were demolished.We can’t but admit the fact that the contribution of soviet power was quite impressive. In 70 years it took great efforts and invested huge amounts of funds in reconstruction and restoration of the entire complex of Registan buildings. All the three madrasas were raised from the ruins and recreated almost in their original form. The construction works to straighten the northeastern minaret of the Ulugbek Madrasa were unprecedented in the world reconstruction practice.
The Registan square is an unforgettable and amazing sight for numerous tourists and viewers. Those who visit the square may think that they have traveled far back in ages on a time machine. Twice a year the Registan square of Samarkand hosts a festival of eastern music “Shark Taronollari” (Melodies of the East), with Asian music bands participating.
You should visit Registan at least twice. At first during the day, and then in the evening, in the summertime, when one can listen to the city history told by three madrasas to the magnificent light and sound panorama:
I am Registan, I am the heart of Samarkand,
I am a monument to wars and disasters of the past.
Descendant, listen to the words of wisdom: keep peace.
To live in peace and friendship is to be happy.
Remember this, wherever you go.
Authors: Anderi Velichko with active participation of Sergey Levkovich. July 30, 2007.
Translation from Russian by vasq.